Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead: Maximizing Your Harvest with Natural Growth Techniques

Intro for Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead

Tomato suckers are the small shoots that emerge from the leaf axils (the point where a leaf joins the main stem) of tomato plants. Conventional gardening wisdom has long advocated for their removal, claiming they drain energy from fruit production. However, recent research and experienced gardeners are challenging this practice. Suckers can actually increase your overall yield, improve sun protection for developing fruit, and create a more resilient plant. This guide explores why keeping your tomato suckers might be beneficial and offers alternative management techniques that work with your plant’s natural growth patterns across various temperate growing regions.

When to plant Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead

The question of sucker management begins after your tomato plants are established in the garden. Tomatoes should be planted when soil temperatures reach 15-18°C (60-65°F) and all danger of frost has passed. In most temperate regions, this falls between late spring and early summer. Your approach to suckers becomes relevant once plants reach about 30-45cm (12-18 inches) tall and begin developing these secondary shoots, typically 3-4 weeks after transplanting outdoors.

Best time to plant Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead

For cool climate regions (Zones 3-5), transplant tomato seedlings outdoors in late May to early June when managing suckers becomes relevant by mid-July. In moderate climates (Zones 6-8), plant from mid-April to May with sucker management decisions needed by June. Warm climate gardeners (Zones 9-11) can plant as early as March or even year-round in frost-free areas, making sucker management an ongoing consideration. Direct sowing is generally not recommended for tomatoes in most regions, as transplants provide a significant head start.

Best Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead varieties to grow

• Indeterminate varieties – These benefit most from selective sucker retention as they naturally grow tall and produce continuously throughout the season.
• Cherry tomatoes (like ‘Sun Gold’ or ‘Sweet 100’) – These vigorous producers can handle multiple suckers and often yield more with minimal pruning.
• Heirloom varieties (like ‘Brandywine’ or ‘Cherokee Purple’) – These often benefit from some suckers for increased leaf coverage to prevent sunscald on their delicate fruits.
• Roma tomatoes – These determinate types need fewer suckers removed than commonly thought, as extra foliage can protect fruits from sun damage.
• Beefsteak varieties – Large-fruited types like ‘Big Beef’ benefit from strategic sucker retention to support their heavy fruit load.
• Disease-resistant hybrids – Modern varieties with built-in resistance can handle more foliage without increased disease pressure.

How to plant Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead

Materials needed:

• Healthy tomato transplants
• Compost or well-rotted manure
• Balanced organic fertilizer
• Mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or compost)
• Support system (cages, stakes, or trellises)
• Soft plant ties or twine
• Pruning shears (clean and sharp)

Step-by-step planting process:

1. Select a sunny location with at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
2. Prepare soil by incorporating 2-3 inches of compost to improve fertility and drainage.
3. Dig holes 45-60cm (18-24 inches) apart for indeterminate varieties or 35-45cm (14-18 inches) for determinate types.
4. Remove lower leaves and plant tomatoes deeply, burying the stem up to the first set of true leaves to encourage root development.
5. Water thoroughly after planting to eliminate air pockets around roots.
6. Install support structures at planting time to avoid root damage later.
7. Apply 5-7cm (2-3 inches) of mulch around plants, keeping it away from stems.
8. Label varieties clearly to track which pruning approach works best for each type.

How to grow Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead

Rather than removing all suckers, adopt a selective approach. Allow plants to receive 8+ hours of sunlight daily. Water deeply and consistently, providing 2.5-5cm (1-2 inches) of water weekly, adjusting for rainfall. Apply a balanced organic fertilizer (like 5-5-5) at planting and again when fruits begin forming.

For sucker management, follow the “Missouri pruning method” – allow suckers to grow 10-15cm (4-6 inches) long, then pinch off just the growing tip, leaving several leaves on each sucker. This creates a bushier plant with more photosynthetic surface while preventing excessive growth. For container growing, retain 2-3 strategic suckers on indeterminate varieties and 1-2 on determinate types to balance yield with container constraints.

Use sturdy support systems like cattle panels or strong cages to accommodate the additional growth from retained suckers. Ensure adequate spacing between plants (45-60cm/18-24 inches) when keeping more suckers to promote air circulation.

Caring for Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead

Monitor plants weekly for new sucker growth, making selective pruning decisions based on plant vigor and available space. Remove any suckers that emerge very low on the plant (below the first flower cluster) as these contribute less to yield. For disease prevention with retained suckers, focus on morning watering at soil level and maintaining good air circulation.

Common pests like hornworms can be manually removed. For fungal issues that might increase with denser foliage, apply organic copper fungicide preventatively during humid periods. Harvest fruits when fully colored but still firm, testing different sucker management approaches on different plants to determine what works best in your specific conditions.

For storage, keep tomatoes at room temperature rather than refrigerating for best flavor. If your plants become too dense with retained suckers, selectively thin some foliage to improve air circulation while maintaining sun protection for fruits.

Understanding bolting in Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead

Unlike leafy greens, tomatoes don’t bolt in the traditional sense. However, they can experience growth issues related to stress. Excessive heat (consistently above 32°C/90°F) can cause tomato plants to stop setting fruit and focus on vegetative growth through suckers. This is actually a survival mechanism where retained suckers can help the plant recover once temperatures moderate.

To prevent heat-related growth issues, provide afternoon shade during extreme heat waves, maintain consistent moisture, and use mulch to regulate soil temperature. If plants stop setting fruit during hot periods, continue caring for them normally and maintain healthy suckers, as they’ll often resume production when temperatures cool.

Why does Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead turn bitter?

• Insufficient foliage protection: Removing too many suckers can expose fruits to excessive sunlight, causing sunscald and bitter flavors – retain strategic suckers to provide natural shade.
• Inconsistent watering: Drought stress followed by heavy watering can cause splitting and bitterness – suckers with their additional leaves help moderate soil moisture through increased transpiration.
• Nutrient imbalance: Too much nitrogen promotes excessive sucker growth at the expense of fruit quality – balance fertilizers with adequate potassium and phosphorus.
• Variety characteristics: Some varieties naturally have higher acidity or more complex flavors that can be perceived as bitter – experiment with different sucker management approaches for each variety.
• Early harvest: Picking fruits before full ripeness can result in bitter flavors – allow fruits to ripen fully on plants protected by strategic foliage.

Companion planting for Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead

When growing tomatoes with retained suckers, consider these beneficial companions:

• Basil – Repels certain pests and may improve tomato flavor while thriving in the dappled shade created by selective sucker retention.
• Marigolds – Deter nematodes and other soil pests while growing well in the spaces between more bushy tomato plants.
• Nasturtiums – Act as trap crops for aphids that might otherwise target tomato suckers and new growth.
• Carrots – Their deep roots don’t compete with tomatoes and they benefit from the partial shade of bushier tomato plants in hot climates.
• Borage – Attracts pollinators and beneficial insects that help protect your tomato plants from pests.

Avoid planting tomatoes near:

• Potatoes – Share diseases with tomatoes and compete for nutrients, especially problematic with bushier tomato plants.
• Fennel – Releases compounds that can inhibit tomato growth, particularly affecting new sucker development.
• Corn – Creates too much shade and competes heavily for nutrients needed by tomatoes with retained suckers.

Seasonal calendar

• Early Spring (March-April): Start seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost; no sucker management yet.
• Late Spring (May): Transplant seedlings outdoors after frost danger passes; support structures installed.
• Early Summer (June): First suckers appear; make initial decisions about which to keep based on plant structure.
• Mid-Summer (July): Apply Missouri pruning method to retained suckers; first harvest begins; maintain supports.
• Late Summer (August): Peak harvest period; continue selective sucker management; monitor for disease in dense foliage.
• Early Fall (September): Begin removing new suckers to direct energy to ripening existing fruit.
• Mid-Fall (October): Final harvests; evaluate which sucker management techniques produced best results.

Note: For warmer regions (Zones 9-11), extend this calendar earlier in spring and later into fall. For cooler regions (Zones 3-5), compress this timeline into a shorter growing season.

Problems & solutions

Common questions about growing Why You Shouldn’t Remove Tomato Suckers and What to Do Instead

Q: Won’t keeping suckers reduce my overall tomato yield?
A: Research shows that selectively keeping suckers often increases total yield, though individual fruits may be slightly smaller. The additional photosynthetic surface creates more energy for fruit production.

Q: How many suckers should I keep on each plant?
A: For indeterminate varieties, keep 3-5 well-positioned suckers; for determinate types, 1-2 suckers is sufficient. Container plants should have fewer retained suckers than garden plants.

Q: Does keeping suckers increase disease risk?
A: It can if air circulation is poor. Mitigate by spacing plants 45-60cm (18-24 inches) apart, removing lower leaves, and watering at soil level in the morning.

Q: Which suckers are most important to keep?
A: Keep suckers that emerge just below flower clusters and those positioned to grow outward rather than into the center of the plant. Remove suckers that emerge very low on the stem.

Q: Can I root the suckers I remove to create new plants?
A: Absolutely! Suckers 10-15cm (4-6 inches) long can be rooted in water or directly in moist soil, providing free additional plants.

Q: Do I need special supports when keeping more suckers?
A: Yes, use sturdier supports like large tomato cages (at least 60cm/24 inches diameter) or cattle panels rather than single stakes to accommodate the additional growth.

Q: Should I follow the same approach for all tomato varieties?
A: No, adjust based on type. Cherry tomatoes and indeterminate heirlooms benefit most from retained suckers, while determinate paste varieties need less sucker retention.